Exploring the Czech Republic: the mysterious Křivoklátsko

In Lány you’ll encounter some really impressive animals. And we’re not talking about the hefty fish in the castle’s moat. We mean fallow deer, mouflon and two wild boars named Berta and Boris.

One exciting addition is the chance to tour the baroque castle that has served as the official summer residence of the President of the Czech Republic for over a century. It’s only been open inside since 2023. Inside, you can peek into the office of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk—the first president of Czechoslovakia. Ha, Garrigue… a little French spark in the Křivoklát region. If you want to learn more about his life, family and political work (which we definitely recommend), visit the T.G. Masaryk Museum in Lány.

Slowhop suggests:

In the castle garden, look for the monumental fountain where water flows from the mouths of five lions. It was designed by Slovenian architect and urban planner Josip Plečnik.

Following President Masaryk’s love of horses, combine your Křivoklátsko visit with a stay at Glamping Nad Meandry. Expect a permaculture setting with views of horses and luxurious outdoor comfort.

_{Photo: Zámek Lány, Jiří Jiroušek}

And here comes France again: welcome to the Central Bohemian Provence! You’ll discover purple lavender fields grown sustainably and organically—just the way we like them. You can enjoy these violet bouquets in several spots around the Křivoklátsko nature reserve, for example in Nezabudice or near Chodoun.

In Chodoun by Zdice you can experience genuine Slow Travel Czech-style. The farm here is nearly 200 years old, and the Stehlík family keeps traditional agriculture alive. They raise cows, grow grains and produce their own dairy. And for sweet lovers, local seasonal treats like honey, eggs, vegetables and ice cream are a must.

In your minimalist cottage, it’s just you and acres of lavender. Maringotka v Levandulovém údolí is run by Helena Neumann, who’s reviving herbal traditions in Czechia. Her organically grown lavender, sage, rosemary and many other treasures are used in aromatherapy, massages and relaxing treatments. In short: pure relaxation.

The French have castles along the Loire; we have ours along the Berounka.

Křivoklát Castle is one of the oldest and most significant medieval royal castles in the Czech lands. Originally a wooden fortress for the hunting nobility, its convenient location made it a favorite retreat for monarchs. At different times, Premysl Otakar II, Charles IV and alchemist Edward Kelley lived here. Kelley ended up imprisoned in the castle’s dungeons—not for inept magic but for killing a courtier named Hunkler against the emperor’s ban on dueling. Legend says even Prague’s famous executioner Jan Mydlář tried to persuade him to speak.

You can tour Křivoklát with or without a guide, and cultural events happen year-round, so check the schedule before you go.

Along the Berounka, you can also visit Zvíkov, the ruins of Týřov Castle and Nižbor Castle—a dream route for history lovers.

We especially recommend the paired castles Žebrák and Točník. Want to know which is older and where the hidden gold lies? Dive into the story we told at the tiny house Za trnkou.

_{Photo: Křivoklát, Filip Fuxa | Shutterstock}

The Skryjské ponds in the valley of the Zbirožský stream are famous not only for their striking beauty but also thanks to French paleontologist Joachim Barrande. He spent nearly 45 years searching for fossils in this Czech region.

The “Following the Trilobite” educational trail will delight any child fascinated by the mysterious world of dinosaurs. The 3.5 km route is split into two parts: hands-on and educational. Along the way, you’ll find trilobite replicas and a special spot where young explorers can dig for their own fossil fragments.

Slowhop suggests:

Petr Čech (no, not that footballer) will tell you about one of Czechoslovakia’s first power plants in an “electroscan.” “When the lights first went on in Slabice in 1918, firefighters from three villages rushed to a ‘fire’ to put it out—such was the glare,” reads the Slabice archive.

We recommend off-grid accommodation without electricity. A clever host, Dita, turned an old plum dryer into an amazing glamping retreat for two. See the photos and read her story—it’s like a fairy tale.

_{Photo: Skryjská jezírka, Jan Němec}

Warning—we’re better storytellers than tabloid papers, and we have a tale straight out of an American horror film. Legend says you should never enter the Křivoklát forests in an odd-numbered group! That’s because the forest spirit Dyma lurks here, especially during storms, taking the form of fiery creatures, will-o’-the-wisps and even a dragon. You won’t find him in fairy tales—he was a cruel tormentor who either tore travelers and miners apart or led them to perilous spots deep in the woods. But here’s the trick: if Dyma met a group in even numbers, he dared not attack. Now do you know the right way to enter the forest?

Forest walks in Křivoklát often go hand in hand with mushroom hunting, especially after rain.

The region’s diverse woods host many species: chanterelles, russulas, honey fungus and saffron milk caps. And once your basket is full, how about a mushroom quesadilla or hongos con epazote in host Sylvie’s beautiful Mexican kitchen?

_{Photo: Křivoklátsko, Jiří Jiroušek}